Introduction xPART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1Chapter 1 Background Information 3Geography 3, Climate 5, Natural history 6,Conservation 20, History 23, The cocaine trade 31,Government and politics 33, Economy 35, People 39,Language 44, Religion 44, Education 45,Social structure 45, Culture 47Chapter 2 Practical Information 63When to visit 63, Highlights 63, Tour operators 64,Red tape 66, Getting there and away 68, Health 70,Safety 81, Cruise passengers 86, Gay/lesbian rights 88,What to take 89, Money 91, Budgeting 92,Getting around 93, Accommodation 99, Eating anddrinking 100, Public holidays 102, Festivals 103,Shopping 107, Photography 108, Media andcommunications 108, Business 111, Buying property 113,Cultural etiquette 113, Living in Colombia 115,Travelling positively 115PART TWO THE GUIDE 119Chapter 3 Bogotá 120History 121, Geography 122, Climate 123, Architecture123, Getting there and around 123, Tourist information129, Where to stay 130, Where to eat and drink 134,Entertainment and nightlife 137, Shopping 140, Sport 141,Other practicalities 141, What to see and do 143, AroundBogotá 151Chapter 4 North of Bogotá 156History 156, Getting there and around 156, Boyacá 158,Santander 177, Norte de Santander 191Chapter 5 Los Llanos 198History 198, The ecosystem of Los Llanos 199,The road from Bogotá 200, Villavicencio 202,Around Villavicencio 207Chapter 6 San Andrés Archipelago 218History 220, People 222, Language 222, Fauna and flora223, Practicalities 225, Diving in the archipelago 225, IslaSan Andrés 230, San Luis 241, Isla Providencia 242, IslaSanta Catalina 250Chapter 7 Amazonia 252History 254, Ecological concerns 255, People 256,Leticia 257, Around Leticia 271, Exploring the YavaríRiver 277, Benjamin Constant 281, Parque NacionalCahuinari 282, Tabatinga 283, Santa Rosa 285Chapter 8 The Southwest Interior 286Valle del Cauca 286, Cali 288, Around Cali 296, Buga298, Around Buga 300, Huila and Cauca 300, Neiva 301,Around Neiva 302, Popayán 310, Around Popayán 315,Nariño 316, Pasto 317, Around Pasto 319Chapter 9 The Northwest Interior 323Antioquia 323, Medellín 325, Around Medellín 342, SantaFé de Antioquia 350, Zona Cafetera (Eje Cafetero) 353,Manizales 355, Around Manizales 360, Pereira 363,Around Pereira 367, Armenia 371, Around Armenia 374Chapter 10 The Pacific Coast 383Flora and fauna 385, Getting there and around 386,Practicalities 386, Bahía Solano 387, Playa Almejal 389,Parque Nacional Ensenada de Utría 392, El Valle 393,Buenaventura 394, Bahía Málaga 396, San Cipriano 397,Nuquí 398.