INTRODUCTION: CULINARY ROUTES THE SOVIET REPUBLICS AT A GLANCE APPETIZERS Zakuski "You must make sure that your mind dwells on nothing but the wineglass and the appetizer," said Anton Chekhov. Accompany chilled shots of vodka with a glittering array of little dishes-Caviar Tartlets, Tiny Meatballs with Pine Nuts and Raisins, Swordfish with Zesty Tomato Sauce. A most inviting way to begin a meal. SOUPS Supi Much more than borscht: fragrant Pomegranate Broth from Azerbaijan; hearty Byelorussian Wild Mushroom and Noodle Soup; Armenian Lentil and Apricot Soup-so gorgeous in taste and color; refreshing chilled summer coolers. Ingenious combinations of flavor and seasoning. SALAD Salati Cod garnished with cornichons, potatoes enhanced by Bulgarian feta and lots of dill, a classic Salad Olivier. Beautifully composed and mixed salads, simply dressed, as luncheon or first-course dishes. RUSSIAN CUISINE BEEF AND VEAL DISHES Govyadina i Telyatina Catherine the Great preferred her beef boiled with pickled cucumbers and a sauce of smoked reindeer tongues.

Not to everyone''s taste, perhaps, but here are perfectly marinated Georgian Beef Kabobs, a piquant Veal and Quince Stew, the classic Beef Stroganoff, and of course, boiled beef-no reindeer tongues, but with two savory sauces. LAMB DISHES Baranina Enticing ways with lamb. Choice cuts combine with exotic spices and fresh herbs to create grilled kebabs from Uzbekistan, a warming lamb casserole from Georgia, and a yogurt-enriched Armenian stir-fry. PORK DISHES Svinina "Pork is the real hero of the feast," or so thought Nikita Vsevoldovich Vselolzhsky, a nineteenth-century gourmet. Garlicky sausages with pomegranate seeds from Georgia. Rich satisfying pork and sauerkraut from the Ukraine. Luscious roast suckling pig. Exquisite aromas fill your house as you feast.

POULTRY AND GAME DISHES Ptitsa i Dich Crispy Chicken Kiev; Grilled Chicken with Garlic and Walnut Sauce; and the classic Chicken Pozharsky, a dish immortalized by Alexander Pushkin. In Russia, when company is expected, a hostess turns to her extensive collection of Poultry recipes. FISH DISHES Riba ". There''s nothing I''d rather do than fish," reflected Anton Chekhov. Sturgeon and smelts, carp, haddock, and the sweetest, most delicate-tasting trout; Baked Fish with Eggplant and Pomegranate Sauce; and an elegant Steamed Salmon with Sorrel and Spinach Sauce. BALTIC CUISINE VEGETABLE DISHES Ovoshchi In the Soviet Union there is a simple reverence for an unblemished potato or a splendid, crunchy carrot. Unpretentious dishes are prepared from cabbage and beets. But there are also savory wild mushrooms, eggplant ragout, the quintessential fried potatoes.

And a host of irresistible stuffed vegetables. GEORGIAN CUISINE RICE AND GRAINS Ris i Krupi It is said that while swooping through Central Asia, Alexander the Great summoned a local soldier and bade him prepare a dish that would be proper nurture to a fighting man, an inspiration in taste. Of course, the soldier brought back his best pilaf. CENTRAL ASIAN CUISINE DUMPLINGS AND NOODLES Izdeliya iz Testa Vareniki, Pelmeni, Haluski, Manti, and more. All the wonderful dumplings and their fillings-potato, meat, sauerkraut, sour cherry, and creamy cheese. BREADS AND SAVORY PIES Khleba i Piroghi Together with salt, bread is the ancient symbol of Slavic hospitality. In fact, a Soviet house without it would be unthinkable. Riga Rye Bread, Steamed Cilantro Buns, Kulebiaka, Khachapuri, Pirozhki, and Pirogs-a selection of fragrant loaves and luscious savory pies.

UKRANIAN CUISINE BRUNCH AND TEA DISHES Zavtraki i Chai An elegant table laden with tartlets, lovingly filled crepes, and delicate cookies. Accompanying all this, a beautiful samovar to keep the tea warm. FROM THE PANTRY Domashniye Zagotovki Jars of crunchy Armenian Mixed Pickles, Moldavian Red Pepper Relish, Sweet and Sour Beet Salad. No Soviet meal is complete without at least on tantalizing side dish. FEASTS AND HOLIDAYS Prazdniki Blini for Malenitsa (the Butter Festival; a sinfully rich kulich as well as a pashka for Easter; a unique gefilte fish for Passover; a festive, layered yeast cake for Christmas; Distinctive celebrations and traditional rituals. BEVERAGES Napitki A dense cup of Turkish coffee so popular in the Caucasus; tea, Russian style with jam; marinated compotes, sherbets, and other surprising fruit drinks. Plus a selection of beloved vodkas-and to avoid embarrassment when among Russians, an essential, step-by-step guide to downing a shot. ARMENIAN CUISINE DESSERTS Sladkiye Blyuda Lavish Chocolate Meringue Cake, Sweet Strudels, Charlotte Russe, pies, and custards-all handed down through generations of Russian babushkas.

But also Almond and Pistachio Paklava, Poached Quinces, and Saffron Pudding for a touch of the East. BASICS Osnovniye Retsepti The essential stocks, pastries, and sauces. NOTES ON INGREDIENTS A few words on some ingredients that may be unfamiliar. MAIL-ORDER SOURCES A listing of shops that will mail-order harder-to-find ingredients. INDEX.