chapter 1 Breakfast Who digs a pressure cooker out of the cabinet on a busy Tuesday morning? Not ­us--­but we do get it out for a Saturday ­mid- morning breakfast or any time we have weekend guests in from New York City. Or on the holidays when we''ve got a house full of family. Or during busy photo shoots when we want a hot breakfast. Come to think of it: we''ve probably pulled out the pressure cooker on a Tuesday morning. Using a pressure cooker for breakfast isn''t just about faster cooking; it''s also about better cooking. Toast is fast. A pressure cooker layers depths of flavor in breakfast casseroles and compotes, hashes, and even porridges, all without much effort. Take ­steel-­cut oats.

Yes, they''re done in minutes under pressure, as opposed to a long simmer in a saucepan. But they''re also done better: they not only take on the vaunted creaminess that ­long-­cooking affords but also pick up more flavor from the surrounding liquid and dried fruit. Retaining a bit of firmness underneath the velvety luxury, they end up with better texture and a more intense flavor. They''re definitely more satisfying than any microwave fare. You may also be surprised at how pressure cooks eggs: the whites stay creamy and delicate; the yolks, set to your preference. At this point, we can''t imagine making ­soft-­boiled eggs any other way. Of course, there''s a "but" or two: pay attention to the stated release in these recipes and follow the instructions carefully. Some grains get foamy under pressure and will spurt out of the pressure valve if you attempt a quick release when a natural one is called for.

Others need a bit of time under a natural release so they can absorb moisture and get tender without going gummy. Most whole grains need to be presoaked. And be prepared to eat when breakfast is ready. Many of these dishes ­aren''t forgiving: bread puddings can get dry; eggs can turn tough. So make the coffee, set the table, and prepare the breakfast recipe as the last task in the list. Listen, ­that''s not a bad thing. If ever a meal called for efficiency, it''s breakfast. The day awaits! One more thing: we''ve adjusted the Effort label in this first chapter.

That is, recipes that might have been marked "a little" in a subsequent chapter are labeled "a lot" of effort here. Given that we stumble around half blind before our second cup of coffee, we sometimes think melting butter in the morning qualifies as heroic. So here are some fine hot cereals, breakfast bread puddings, potato hashes, and fruit compotes. We''ve even got a fine and fast sausage gravy, a sweet breakfast version of polenta, and an innovative ­top-­of-­the-­morning risotto for a special treat. You provide the toast and coffee; the pressure cooker will do the rest. Apple Maple Oatmeal Effort: Not much * Pressure: High * Time under pressure: 12 or 18 minutes * Release: Natural * Serves: 4 1/2 cup ­steel-­cut oats 1/2 cup chopped dried apples 1/4 cup maple syrup 1/4 cup sliced almonds 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon salt 1Mix everything with 21/4 cups water in a ­6-­quart stovetop or electric pressure cooker. 2Lock the lid onto the pot. STOVETOP: Set the pot over high heat and bring it to high pressure (15 psi).

Once the pressure has been reached, reduce the heat as much as possible while keeping this pressure constant. Cook for 12 minutes. OR ELECTRIC: Set the machine to cook at high pressure (9-11 psi). Set the machine''s timer to cook at this pressure for 18 minutes. 3Reduce the pressure. STOVETOP: Set the pot off the heat and let its pressure return to normal, about 10 minutes. OR ELECTRIC: Turn off the machine or unplug it so it ­doesn''t jump to its ­keep-­warm setting. Allow the pot''s pressure to return to normal, 10 to 12 minutes.

If the pressure in the pot ­hasn''t come back to normal within 12 minutes, use the ­quick-­release method to bring it back to normal. 4Unlock and open the pot; stir well before serving. Testers'' Notes This is a ­whole-­grain breakfast in minutes! It''s one of the perks of owning a pressure cooker. Use only ­steel-­cut oats (also called "pinhead oats" or "Irish oats"), not rolled oats and not the more ground Scottish oats, and certainly not instant oats. ­Steel-­cut oats are the whole groats (bran, germ, and endosperm), cut into smaller pieces. Don''t even think about using anything but real maple syrup in this recipe. You can substitute chopped dried pears, nectarines, peaches, or apricots for the apples. Serve It Up!Warm some milk, ­half-­and-­half, or cream in a small saucepan over low heat or in the microwave for a couple of minutes on high (but do not boil).

Pour over each serving. Creamy Banana Oatmeal Effort: Not much * Pressure: High * Time under pressure: 12 or 18 minutes * Release: Natural * Serves: 4 1/2 cup ­steel-­cut oats 1/2 cup packed light brown sugar 2 ripe bananas, chopped 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 cup heavy cream 1Mix the oats, brown sugar, bananas, vanilla, cinnamon, and salt with 21/4 cups water in a ­6-­quart stovetop or electric pressure cooker until the brown sugar dissolves. 2Lock the lid onto the pot. STOVETOP: Set the pot over high heat and bring it to high pressure (15 psi). Once this pressure has been reached, reduce the heat as much as possible while maintaining this pressure. Cook for 12 minutes. OR ELECTRIC: Set the machine to cook at high pressure (9-11 psi). Set the machine''s timer to cook at high pressure for 18 minutes.

3Reduce the pressure. STOVETOP: Set the pot off the heat and let its pressure fall to normal naturally, about 10 minutes. OR ELECTRIC: Turn off the machine or unplug it so it ­doesn''t flip to its ­keep-­warm setting. Allow the pot''s pressure to come to normal naturally, 10 to 12 minutes. If the pot''s pressure ­hasn''t returned to normal within 12 minutes, use the ­quick-­release method to bring it back to normal. 4Unlock and open the cooker. Stir in the cream and set aside for 1 minute to warm before serving. Testers'' Notes Don''t double the amount of oats in any of these porridges: the grains are stocked with a sticky starch that will rise up and clog the pressure release valve.

If you''ve got more than four persons for breakfast, make two batches. For the best flavor, the bananas should be quite ripe, their skins mottled with plenty of brown spots. Look for the ones just about to be discounted: these are the best candidates. You can substitute light cream, ­half-­and-­half, regular evaporated milk, or almond milk for the heavy cream. Bulgur, Oat, and Walnut Porridge Effort: A little * Pressure: High * Time under pressure: 16 or 24 minutes * Release: Quick * Serves: 6 to 8 1/2 cup ­steel-­cut oats 1/2 cup bulgur 1/2 cup chopped walnuts 1/2 cup maple syrup 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon salt 1Mix everything with 4 cups water in a ­6-­quart stovetop or electric pressure cooker. 2Lock the lid onto the pot. STOVETOP: Set the pot over high heat and bring it to high pressure (15 psi). Once this pressure has been reached, reduce the heat as much as possible while keeping the pressure constant.

Cook for 16 minutes. OR ELECTRIC: Set the machine to cook at high pressure (9-11 psi). Set the machine''s timer to cook at high pressure for 24 minutes. 3Use the ­quick-­release method to bring the pot''s pressure back to normal. 4Unlock and remove the lid. Set the stovetop cooker over medium heat or turn the electric cooker to its browning function. Bring to a simmer, stirring often. Cook, stirring constantly, until slightly thickened, about 2 minutes.

Testers'' Notes Because of the way bulgur absorbs water, there may be a little liquid left in the cereal after ­cooking--­a good thing, since it can scorch otherwise. So we advise simmering the cereal after cooking under pressure. That said, if you open the pot and find the porridge has a consistency to your liking, there''s no need for that extra work in step 4. Bulgur is sold by ­grinds--­fine, ­medium-­coarse, and ­extra-­coarse. However, those grinds are often not labeled on the packaging except in certain brands sold at ­health-­food or gourmet stores. Any grind will work here, although fine (sometimes labeled "instant") is probably the least successful, more like Cream of Wheat. Maple syrup is sold by grades, with some packagers using letters and others using numbers: A or 1 is the lighter in flavor. Grade A or 1 is further broken down into light amber, medium amber, and dark amber.

While many people like Grade A or 1 for pancakes, we prefer Grade B or 2 because of its more assertive flavor, including darkly herbaceous notes to pair against the other intense flavors. Substitute chopped pecans or pistachios for the walnuts. Serve It Up!Put a pat of butter and some freshly grated nutmeg on each serving. Cheesy Grits Effort: A lot * Pressure: Hi.