Bulbs Garlic Leeks Onions Ramps Scallions Scapes Shallots Spring Onions As Julia Child wrote, "It''s hard to imagine a civilization without onions." Open any cookbook and you''ll see she''s right. Alliums (the botanical genus includes edible bulbs such as shallots, garlic, onions, and ramps, plus leaves like leeks, scallions, and chives) season many of our favorite dishes. And thanks to the proliferation of farmers'' markets, we now have access to a wider range of these aromatic gems. What''s more, in many places, early varieties start appearing just weeks after the thaw. Clearly, these bulbs are worth celebrating. But, because they are ubiquitous, long lasting, and fairly cheap, we have the luxury of taking them for granted. Like other underground vegetables, including roots and tubers, bulbs of the allium family stockpile the energy and nutrients a plant absorbs from the sun and earth.

But bulbs store it primarily as sugars, not carbohydrates, which may explain why they go to such lengths to defend their treasures. Inside each cell, thanks to one of nature''s most brilliant defense systems, sulfur compounds are kept segregated from the enzymes that trigger them, divided by thin membranes; when the cells are broken--when you slice or bite into an onion, for example--the chemicals combine, creating the volatile gases that can make you cry. Sugar and sulfur: the harsh married to the sweet. It is precisely this intriguing balance that makes bulbs so delicious--and essential. These alliums lend a framework to other flavors, bringing structure and flavor to dishes--and perhaps even civilizations--the world over. Seasonality Because onions and garlic are available all year round, it''s easy to think they don''t have a season. But spring is when these vegetables push their tender green shoots up from the earth and begin forming a new generation of bulbs below. In April and May, look for young versions of onions, garlic, and their kin at farmers'' markets--mild and tender, they are excellent eaten raw.

Spring onions, pulled from the ground before the bulbs have had a chance to grow (in early spring, hence their name), are sweeter and milder than regular onions and most similar in appearance to scallions--except they have a more pronounced flavor that makes them a better option for cooking and pickling than for eating raw. For garlic to produce the cloves we all know and love, the flower buds, or scapes, must be harvested in early spring. And lucky for us, these springtime delicacies are readily available at farmers'' markets and specialty grocers during the spring and early summer. Ramps, also known as wild leeks, are foraged from shaded, woody areas up and down the East Coast, from Georgia to Canada, and are heralded for their garlicky flavor. Their many fans eagerly await their first appearance at farmers'' markets, where you can find them from March through early June (though you can also cultivate your own). Buying Common onions and garlic are "cured"--harvested when fully mature, then dried for storage. Hardiness is key when selecting these vegetables, so at the market, give them a (very gentle) squeeze. Also, avoid bruises and mold, and shun dampness--the skins should be papery and dry.

Select yellow onions for long braises and high-heat cooking; they have the strongest, richest flavor, and will hold up no matter what they''re paired with; white onions are slightly milder, and common in Mexican and South American dishes. Tamer still are red onions, with a touch of sweetness, making them the best choice for salads, sandwiches, and other dishes where they''ll be eaten raw. Among the first vegetables to appear at farmers'' markets after the snow melts, young, spring- and green-leafed bulbs--including scallions and ramps, as well as spring onions and so-called fresh (versus storage) onions, and garlic scapes--are a welcome sight; look for bunches whose greens are firm and stiff, their bulbs bright and glossy. Notable Varieties Onions: White, yellow, and red are grocery-store staples, but it''s worth seeking out Vidalia and Walla Walla onions, the sweetest ones of all (especially when grown in sulfur-free soil), so they absorb none of the sharpness common to other varieties. Spring onions, planted in the fall and harvested in the spring, can be found at farm stands starting in March. They resemble scallions but have a larger bulb. Scallions: Look for purple-bulb varieties in the spring; they have the same flavor as white ones, but make a pretty garnish. Garlic: The garlic sold in grocery stores is intended for long storage rather than flavor, making it worth the trip to the farmers'' market to find other varieties that are usually only available from small growers.

These local heads have larger cloves and a more pronounced flavor, and are sometimes sold still on the stalks; some have purple stripes or a reddish hue. Storing Dark, cool, and dry is how cured bulbs like it, so store onions, shallots, and garlic on an out-of-the way shelf or in a cabinet. Light causes them to sprout, generating green tendrils within that draw nutrients and flavor from the bulb; moisture can cause mold to form beneath the skin (which can be wiped off) or between the layers of the bulb (where it can''t be). Leeks, spring onions, ramps, and scallions, meanwhile, should be refrigerated, loosely wrapped in a plastic bag, and used within a day or two. Prepping Learning to cut onions quickly and skillfully is one of the smartest things novice cooks can do to make kitchen life more agreeable. Remove the papery skin (it''s called the tunic!), and unless you want rings, slice the onion in half from top to root. Lay each half flat on the board and slice into the bulb first lengthwise, then crosswise. If you plan to serve onions raw--in a salad, say, or on a sandwich--first soak the pieces for five to ten minutes in an ice-water bath to remove the sulfur compounds generated on cut surfaces, or give them a brief soak in vinegar.

For garlic, remove the paper sheath by gently crushing each clove with the side of a knife blade, then pull off the paper; remove any green "germ" from the cloves, as these are very bitter. Leeks, ramps, and scallions often need to have their tunics peeled away, too--and as these are fragile and clingy, they may require scraping with the edge of a paring knife. Then cut away the scruffy roots and slice if needed, separating the stronger-flavored white parts from the green, if the recipe requires (most do). Leeks hold onto a lot of grit in their many thick layers; cut them as directed in a recipe, then submerge in a bowl of cold water and swish thoroughly. Lift out the leeks and repeat until you don''t see any more grit in the water. Drain and dry if sautéing or roasting. Cooking With a high proportion of sugars, onions take well to being caramelized. Indeed, you can grill or roast them until nearly black before their flavor is ruined.

But they are equally happy cooked low and slow--gently sautéed in butter or olive oil, or braised in a skillet. This is also the best method for cooking delicate-flavored leeks, ramps, and scallions, which all take well to a quick pass through a hot flame, giving the leaves a dramatic charred flavor that pairs well with meat. Ramps are excellent mixed into pestos and compound butters; sautéed and tossed with spaghetti or served over soft polenta; or treated like herbs, tucking them under the skin of chicken before roasting. As with onions, garlic''s multiple personalities are highlighted by different cooking techniques: Mince or smash raw cloves to add an assertive bite to salad dressings, pestos, salsas and relishes, and no-cook pasta sauces; sauté them until pale golden in butter or oil for a flavor that''s mild and mellow; roast a whole head in the oven until it turns mahogany brown for cloves that are buttery soft, rich, sweet, and earthy--and then spread the paste on bread, toss it with pasta, or incorporate it into dips, and sauces. Green garlic, which could be mistaken for an overgrown scallion, has a mild flavor that''s brighter and fresher tasting than regular cloves. Use the white and green tender parts of the stalk, trimming away any woody parts near the top. How to Roast (For all bulbs) Peel onions and shallots; quarter onions, leaving wedges intact, and separate shallots (halve larger ones, if desired). Trim scallions, leeks, spring onions, green garlic, and ramps; leave whole or cut crosswise into 2-inch pieces (wash leeks well).

Place on a rimmed baking sheet, drizzle with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Strew onions and shallots with fresh thyme or rosemary, if desired. Spread in an even layer and roast at 450°F, tossing once or twice, until tender and browned in spots, 15 to 20 minutes. Drizzle with vinegar (balsamic, cider, sherry, or white wine) and sprinkle with herbs. (For garlic cloves) Separate garlic cloves, and place on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast at 425°F until skins are deep golden brown and flesh is very tender, 40 to 60 minutes. When cool enough to handle, slip out of skins, and use in dressings or sauces, or spread on crostini. (For whole garlic) Slice off top quarter of garlic head, exposing as many cloves as possible, with a serrated knife.

Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper; top with fresh thyme, if desired. Wrap in parchment, then foil, sealing to form a packet. Roast at 425°F until cloves are golden and very soft, 50 to 60 minutes. When cool enough to handle, squeeze head from bottom to push out cloves. Stir into mashed potatoes, whisk into vinaigrettes, or spread on sandwiches or.