Elaine Elliot and Virginia Lee are at it again. The latest in their series of cookbooks is this appetizing collection of salmon recipes from talented chefs across the country.I love salmon, but I'm a guilty eater, because Atlantic farmed salmon is on the list of species to avoid because of PCB concerns and farming methods that can contribute to wild species contamination. With every bite, I remember that David Suzuki won't eat it.A spring visit to British Columbia allowed me guiltless salmon dining of the wild Pacific variety. Baked, broiled, poached,or in salmon burgers. Wow. I was getting smarter and healthier by the minute.

This brain food has Omega-3 polyunstaurated fatty acids, vitamins A, C, and E, niacin, and riboflavin.Whatever your salmon choices, this book will quickly inspire you to create appetizers, soups, and salads or entrees. Recipes range from the simple to the complex, the ordinary to the unique. The book opens with Marinated Atlantic Salmon with a Trio of Peppercorns from Stories Restaurant in Halifax. With peppercorns, parsley, rosemary, lemon, and lime, this attractive dish sets the cookbook's mood. For something a little different, there's Two Salmon Tartare from Quebec and a very rich sounding Bourbon-Laced Grilled Atlantic Salmon, with a cream cheese spread, from Nova Scotia's Keltic Lodge.Moving on to soups and salads, the Salmon Bisque and Fish Chowder both look tempting, but the recipe that catches my eye is a West Coast creation of Gravlax Salad with Papaya Basil Salsa. Instead of the traditional dill, the salmon is flavoured with juniper berries.

The accompanying photo, like many of the others, is stunning.I tried what's probably the quickest and easiest entree, The Honey Mustard Glazed Salmon, seared, baked, and then broiled with Dijon mustard, honey, and onions. This is an excellent flavour combination to complement fresh salmon.There's a great variety of entrees, from Salmon Roulade with Dill Sauce from Sackville's Marshlands Inn, to the Inn at Bay Fortune's Cumin-Crusted Salmon with Roast Corn Polenta and Basil Pea Broth. And I'm intrigued by the Green-Tea-Rubbed Salmon with Rice Pilaf anf Citrus Relish.With so many enticing options, I wont't be stashing this new cookbook away any time soon.Valerie Mansour - Atlantic Books Today - December 31, 2007.