"There are never enough cookbooks that capture the thrills of growing up with family and foods. Italian master-chef Contaldo (Panetteria: Gennaro's Italian Bakery, 2016), who famously taught Jamie Oliver to cook Italian, recounts his childhood in exquisite detail, matching his recollections (and some elegant sepia and black-and-white photographs) to the subject on point. In 'Pesce' (fish and shellfish), it's the story of catching the biggest tuna ever: 'The sea was part of me and I mastered the art of reading it.' The chapter 'Carne' (meat) touches on his pet goat- and the sad ending at Easter time. Tales, in fact, infuse all of Contaldo's over 100 recipes, whether in the upfront introduction or an occasional page or two aside. It is through this narrative and the dishes that his cooking style shines: fresh, laden with olive oil and herbs, simply prepared. It will be no surprise to experienced home chefs to encounter grilled polenta, steamed meatballs, fresh strawberries with strawberry sauce. Artfully arranged photographs and some well-worn and much-needed tips round out what will soon be an oft-referred-to classic.
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